Measuring Guide
How to take
your measurements
A good yardage estimate is only as good as the measurements behind it. Use a flexible tailor's tape, not a rigid ruler, and measure over whatever you'll actually wear underneath the finished garment — a dress shirt under a jacket, for instance. Keep the tape level and snug against the body without pulling it tight, and take each circumference measurement at its fullest point unless noted otherwise.
Cloth & Chalk works in two modes. Body Measurements are taken directly on the person, and the calculator adds the wearing ease a garment needs on top. Finished Garment measurements are taken from an existing, well-fitting piece of clothing laid flat on a table — these already include ease, so lay the garment flat and measure it as-is rather than adding anything.
Body Measurements
- Chest
- Wrap the tape around the fullest part of the chest, under the arms and across the shoulder blades, keeping it level all the way around.
- Stomach
- The fullest part of the stomach or belly, usually a few inches below the chest measurement. Take this even if it's smaller than the chest — the calculator uses whichever is larger.
- Seat
- The fullest part of the seat, measured around the widest point of the hips and backside.
- Bicep
- Arm circumference at its fullest point, usually with the arm relaxed at the side.
- Shoulder
- Seam to seam across the back, from one shoulder point to the other, following the natural slope of the shoulders.
- Sleeve Length
- From the shoulder seam, over a slightly bent elbow, down to where the cuff should end.
- Jacket / Waistcoat Length
- From the nape of the neck (the bony bump at the base of the neck) straight down the back to where the hem should fall.
- Waist
- Natural waist circumference — where the body creases when you bend to the side, not necessarily where trousers are worn.
- Outseam
- From the top of the waistband down the outside of the leg to the hem.
- Inseam
- From the crotch straight down the inside of the leg to the hem.
- Bottom Cuff / Leg Opening
- Circumference of the trouser leg opening, or ankle circumference plus a little room if no reference garment exists.
- Shirt Length
- From the nape of the neck down the back to where the shirt hem should fall.
- Neck
- Circumference of the neck at the base, where a collar would sit — leave a finger's width of slack for comfort.
- Thigh
- Leg circumference at its fullest point, just below the seat.
- Calf
- Leg circumference at the fullest point of the calf.
- Cuff
- Wrist circumference where a shirt cuff would sit, plus enough room to fit two fingers underneath.
- U-Rise
- Front waist, down through the crotch, up to the back waist — measured with a flexible tape following the body's curve, not a straight line.
Finished Garment Measurements
Lay the reference garment flat on a table, front side up, smoothed out but not stretched. For circumference measurements (chest, waist, seat, etc.), measure straight across from one side seam to the other and double it. For lengths (jacket length, sleeve length, inseam), measure directly along the garment from one reference point to the other.
When in doubt, measure twice. A measurement that's off by half an inch can noticeably shift a yardage estimate, especially on larger garments like a three-piece suit. If you're measuring someone else, have them stand naturally — not stretched tall or slouched — and keep the tape parallel to the floor for every circumference.
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